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Elway's

There are plenty of places in Denver to catch up with old friends when they visit town. But if that old friend happens to fancy a bit of sophistication with their cocktail, that list can shrink in a hurry. Thankfully there’s Elway’s—and with it, the right concept has landed at the right address just a stone’s throw from the Cherry Creek Mall.

In fashioning an eponymous restaurant, patron saint of Denver sports John Elway paired with restaurateur Tim Schmidt (owner of three Hacienda Colorado locations, among others) to bring a top notch steakhouse to Cherry Creek. And, along with plenty of free parking (there is a valet for you Escalade lessees), the place also offers a fine bar.

The space at Elway’s is elegantly finished: The entry is marked by slabs of upturned granite with water tumbling down them, to the left sits the dining area and to the right a three-sided island bar surrounded by lounge tables. With warm woods, a huge, backlit onyx panel and more onyx in the light fixtures that hover from the ceiling, it’s a golden, glowing space.

Having opened its doors in October 2004, Elway’s has become home to a brisk bar business, accounting for nearly half of the place’s foot traffic on any given night. As has been the case every time I’ve tipped a glass here, the cucumber lime martini ($9) is a winner. It starts with Hendrick’s, a cucumber-infused gin, has a hint of sweetness (from the ounce of simple syrup in the recipe), and a great flavor profile from the muddled cucumber slices. Match it up with an appetizer of fatty, salty, comfort-foody lamb fondue ($12) and you’ll be in heaven.

And what sort of crowd does this heaven attract? Well, those of an established bent. While there are folks here in their twenties, most of them are on the staff. The crowd here stretches from blazer-wearers in their mid-thirties to fake-boob haulers clinging to their forties up through gray haired gents and dames out spending their retirement fund proceeds. If you want to chance in and rub elbows with said peeps, make it early or you may find yourself searching in vain for a free table. While there is open seating up until 6 p.m., the tables in the bar area go onto a waitlist thereafter. Check in at the hostess stand at the entry to check the status when you arrive.

Piano tunes come to life from the corner of the bar Wednesday through Saturday nights staring around 7 p.m. They’re more up-beat than jazz-bar, so be prepared to listen intently (or talk loudly) if you sit right next to the music pit.

All told, Elway’s beats the odds: It’s the rare jock-icon eatery whose success as a nightlife spot resonates with what the athlete accomplished on the field to begin with.

The word Establishment. Though only two years old, the bar at Elway’s is an uptown drinking spot for the types that run the town.

Elway’s 2500 E. 1st Ave. (just west of the Cherry Creek Mall) 303-399-5353

Happy Hour None offered.

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